Lamu Town

Approaching Lamu Town by Dhow

On Tuesday, we sailed into Lamu town from our second hotel on Manda Island. We enjoyed a great morning of wandering through the beautiful stone town.

Aaron and Charles making their way down a steep street

Our hostess at the Peponi hotel had warned us that Lamu town is a "rabbit warren" of narrow alleys that branch off in every direction. Although she provided us with a hand drawn map of the main sites, she did not venture to try and capture the complexity of this old stone town. We met a friendly young Swahili man named Charles, who agreed to be our guide for the morning as we explored the town.

A man working on the makuti roof of his home

Erica and our friend Charles checking out

an original hand dug Swahili well. Fresh water is,

and has always been, a precious thing in Lamu.

We could fill our blog with photographs of the amazing carved doors and coral and plaster walls that make up the maze of narrow streets and thin alleys that make Lamu town such an incredible place to explore.

The markets of Lamu are filled with local produce, grains, fish, wood carvings, Arab relics, fabric and jewelry. There are also many wonderful artisans who have opened their own studios and workshops with their unique brands of Swahili art.

Aaron in the crowded vegetable market

(a lot nicer than the nearby crowded fish market)

Two young Swahili girls in the narrow streets of Lamu

Back on the docks, to meet our boat at the jetty,

we met teams of donkeys loaded with wares for the local merchants

"A man without a donkey, is a donkey."

Swahili Proverb

The Masai watchman back at our hotel on Manda Island

A huge baobab tree over shadows a mosque

and nearby lodge on Manda Island

Lamu Archipelago

The towering pillar of Mnarani Mosque

in the ancient Swahili village of Shela

on Lamu Island, Kenya

On Sunday afternoon, we arrived on Manda Island within the beautiful Lamu Archipelago on the coast of Kenya for a three day holiday. With its six main islands, surrounded by mangrove forests that grow out of the sea, white sand beaches and tropical waters, Lamu has been called the jewel of Kenya. This was our first journey to this ancient Swahili centre, that dates back to the 7th and 8th centuries when the pre-Arab tribes of the Bajun people established the earliest known settlements. The great stone towns that exist today were cut from the coral reefs by the Arab settlers who established trading ports in Lamu in the 16th century.

A Lamu Dhow Eye

Arabic dhows have been the principle source of transportation along the coast of East Africa for centuries. The small dhows that you see around Lamu are called kijahazi and are used today by fisherman and as local ferries. They are powered by the wind by large triangular sails called a lateens. The hulls, according to local sailors, are often dug out from a large mango tree. Distinctive of Lamu, are a number of interesting ornaments on their dhows from a sky blue nose carving with white scroll work, to the bright "dhow eye" that is suppose to bring luck to the sailor. These dhows eyes are found throughout Lamu as a good luck charm on shops and houses alike.

Shela Village

We stayed our first night in the medieval village of Shela with its wonderful maze-like streets and alleys, along an incredible untouched beach. There are no cars or modern roads in Lamu, donkey or dhow are the only two options for getting around besides hiking and swimming. We had a great time exploring the village and getting to meet some of the locals.

Donkey Riding

A fishing dhow returning to harbour

Walking the beach at sunset

Sunset over beautiful Manda Bay,

Lamu, Kenya